So they just called me about my Subaru, and it passed (although he said I shouldn’t let the tires go much longer and probably shouldn’t take any long trips until I replace them). The “check engine” light is from bad fuel tank sensors, and he said I’m not getting an accurate reading — which I guess explains why my mileage seemed to be so poor.

It passed inspection, I got the oil changed and he told me he has to special-order the fuel sensors, so that gets put off for a while ($360). The immediate bill? $130.

I always breathe a sigh of relief if it’s under $200.

3 thoughts on “Inspection

  1. I feel this particular pain. My 2000 Toyota had “check engine light” on. Despite replacement of catayst converter, VCV and EPAV values that stupid light can back on within 48 hours, and only passed inspection because I had the station that failed me for inspection repair one more item on a Friday. It passed, but the check engine light returned on Monday. $2400.00 all total. The one good news is that after 2-3 weeks the check engine light went off on its own and has not returned. I will be biting the bullet financially until I can replace the repairs cost in my account.

  2. Heh, $200? My rule of thumb for the past decade has been that nothing happens at the mechanic for less than $350.

    My ’96 Toyota has the same engine light issue. Oddly enough, $350 dollars later, my mechanic said don’t worry about it, the light will burn out sooner or later.

  3. My car was running smoothly, it just could not pass inspection until this emissions matter got under control. So either fix the problem or worry about the police pulling me over for an uninspected car or rejected inspection sticker. My guess is that the it took time for the emissions to clear out enough so that the light would go off. For what’s it worth, I believe my mechanics were not yanking me around, that there’s some design problems that make some cars, or al least my car, more complicated to resolve.

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